Sunday 28th March - Day 22 and 23 and 24 - Domingo de las palmas and on

Semana Santa - Domingo de las Palmas

The Plaza de Armes

Sunday morning 6.30a.m. - Karen and I leave for the start of our Palm Sunday adventure.  First stop is the Cathedral in the Plaza de Armes which, we were told had the blessing of the palms and mass at 7a.m.  Having hurried to get there in time, we found the enormous studded doors firmly shut and noone about.  Eventually we gathered that the service does not start until 10a.m. - another hour in bed would have been nice - so we decide to do the rounds of some of the other 36 churches in the city to see what is going on in them.   We visited four of them, all full of people with their palms and although we didn't stay more than ten minutes or so in any of them we begin to get the feel of the Palm Sunday festivities.  When we got to the last of the four which was near the market, we bought our palms from one of the many sellers outside and pushed our way in through crowds of people all wanting their palms blessed until we reached the altar where the priest was sprinkling the crowds with holy water.  

On the way to the altar to get out palms blessed

One of the grander palms but they were all lovely with the leaves plaited into shapes

Karen and I complete with blessed palms

Thoroughly blessed we then popped home for breakfast before back into town for the 10a.m. Cathedral mass.  This was more formal although still palm blessing.  However, after about half an hour of standing not understanding a word I decided to creep out and see what was on offer out in the Plaza.  Good timing because as I stepped onto the pavement a giant fire cracker was let off about 10feet away from me.  I thought a bomb had exploded but it was the signal for the arrival of a procession.  It started with a band, followed by ladies in their traditional clothes, men on horseback, donkeys, acrobats, more bands, men and women together in costume and on and on.  It was wonderful and the colours were stunningly bright and numerous.  Much more fun than mass, I decided.  This first procession set the tone of the day and we were soon on our way to the Festival de las Chemisas  [Fesival of Bushes]

Some of the ladies in the Palm Sunday procession

Part of the procession

The Chemisada was a gathering some way out of town of all the people who were taking part in the earlier procession together with more horses, llamas and donkeys all of which would be in the grand procession from this location to the Plaza, a distance of probably 3 miles later in the day.  When we arrived, there was music and folk dancing and a very, very festive spirit as there was free beer and chicha [yum yum] a local brew made from 7 different grains.  It starts off non-alcoholic but after only 3 days of brewing becomes more and more alcoholic.  There is another sort which is chicha morada [purple chicha] which is made from fruit and berries.   Free food for 5,000 people was also provided so you can get an idea of the scale of the gathering and also the jolly mood of everyone, especially as the sun was shining after a day of rain.  Having had our fill of chicha or beer, the procession set off to town - Karen and I decided to walk with them and took our place at the front, alongside the band and the mayor!  It took well over an hour to do the walk - so hot by now - but it was great fun, feeling as though we were actually part of the procession.  Once in town, everyone, including all the llamas and donkeys and horses, processed along the long, narrow, cobbled streets into the Plaza.  One group, special Peruvian trotting horses [Cabaleros de Paso]  held back so that they could trot the length of the street showing off their amazing high trot.  Their riders were dressed in brown vicuna ponchos and white shirts and trousers - soooooo sexy and gorgeous.

The rancheros in their wonderful ponchos

Aaaaaah  -  waiting to set off in the procession

Dressed in his ceremonial attire

Joining in with the procession to the Plaza - Look what I found!

The procession riding into town - look beyond the arch to see the road into the Plaza completely filled with people

Time was now about 3.30p.m. and Jesus was expected to leave the Monastario de S. Theresa at 4p.m. so Karen and I hot footed it back up the hill the way we had already been to grab us a good view point. We had time to get some fresh orange juice on the way - needed after the dehydration of the chicha and the long walk.  

El Monastario de S. Theresa

We waited and waited and waited and eventually at about 4.30, there was a rustle of excitement and everyone raised their palms up to the sky and shook them and shouted out 'Gloria' - Jesus was on his way!!  Out came two donkeys escorted by the 'disciples' - the first donkey carried Jesus, the second one carried two paniers filled with fruit [grapes, pineapples, apples, oranges - weird, I'm sure that that wasn't in the bible] and behind the second donkey came an enormous, empty wooden throne-like chair carried by two more men. 

Jesus, I am afraid to say, was a huge disappointment as I was expecting to see a human dressed in white with a long black wig [as i had seen on the internet] but instead, it was a smaller-than-life-size model dressed in ornate, purple robes, with ginger hair and sparkly slippers who, in spite of being tied onto the donkey with ropes, kept slipping off sideways and had to be hoisted back in place by one of the disciples. 

Jesus leaving the Monastario

A somewhat unstable Jesus riding to the Plaza

 I rushed in to take a picture, telling Karen I would meet her back on the pavement, but by the time I had got my shot, I was being swept away by a sea of people shaking their palms and calling out 'Gloria'!  It was like being caught up in a tsunami and there was no way I could return as everyone was by now moving along the road with Jesus on the way to the Plaza.  Hey ho, thought I, the motto of the trip is 'go with the flow' so off I flowed with about 10,000 people and joined in with every 'Gloria' and 'Que Vive' that was chanted along the way.  What I didn't realise was that once started there was no going back - the police had to join hands and make a human barricade against the pushing, seething mass that included me with my face pressed up into someone's neck and god-knows-what pressing into my back.  My flip-flops got trodden on as did my toes and within a short time, my hair had come loose as had all the buttons down my shirt.  There was no room for me to even move my arm to do them up!  We edged our way along the streets sometimes being showered by rose petals from the windows above us and although it was quite frightening to think what might happen if someone had tripped or fainted, it was, I suppose, quite fun and an extraordinary experience.   My humour did fail me once or twice as I got a palm up my nose or in my ear and after an hour and a half, I had definitely had enough.  Eventually we all spewed into the Plaza amidst an enormous rustle and shake of all the palms and thank God, it was over.    No one else from my house was around so I staggered back home just in time for dinner - exactly 12 hours after I had left in the morning.  I was in bed by 7.30, asleep by 8 and didn't wake until 6 this morning - a record.

Police cordon for the human tsunami or 'moshpit' as it is known! 

That was Day 1 of Semana Santa - what next I ask myself.  

Today [Monday], as normal - went to Ancianas this morning - it really is my favourite placement as they are sooooo appreciative and love it when I dance with them and generally make a loco of myself.  I dont even mind chopping the veggies - better than having little children climbing all over me, that's for sure.  Went to the plaza to see this evening's procession - a small version of the enormous edifice that they carry on Easter Sunday.

 

Monday night's procession

There is a party on Wednesday night which goes on till 2 or 3a.m. but I am going to pass on that one, chicha or no chicha. [Since recovering from Sunday's ordeal, I have decided that I will be joining in the Wednesday night celebrations.!] Unfortunately, we have just had a dreadful thunder storm and pouring rain which will have washed away all the wonderful flower carpets laid in the Plaza for tonight's [Tuesday] procession. We were going to watch but it is still tipping down so have decided to catch up with home chores.

Love to all - only another 4 days to go until Brazil.  Not sure if anyone will want to know about that, so might not keep on blogging.  Let me know.      

Saturday 27th March - Day 21 - Vilcashaman

Weekend and time for another sight-seeing trip.  Up at 5p.m. in order to get a hot shower before we took our tour bus to Vilcashaman at 6a.m.  Vilcashaman is the second most important Incan city after Machu Pichu.  It was a three hour drive through unbelievably beautiful scenery but totally through the mountains and therefore nearly all hairpin bends and sheer drops down into the valley below.  Terror, terror, terror ....especially when part of the road had dropped away and a wooden plank bridge had been laid across the gap.  However, we made it there and back in one piece and although it was good to get out of Ayacucho for the day and we all enjoyed it, I dont think I would rush to go back on that particular trip.   On the way back we stopped in the middle of an area of land not dissimilar to the New Forest and then had to walk on to see a forest of Puya Romande trees.  These are like enormous cacti that grow to about 12mtrs and live for 100 years.  At the end of their lives they sprout a huge cone shaped flower and then die. 

 We were all looking forward to a nice end-of-the-day dinner on our return but sat down to seaweed, potatoe and carrot casserole complete with a few tasty little barnacles that were still stuck to the seaweed! Yuk.  Another packet of crisps and an M&M for dinner!

Some of the Incan ruins with a Spanish church on top of them

The main Incan King whose name escapes me but it's not Atahualpa

Incan Temple to the Sun God

A real live Gaucho

Sitting on the Sun God temple

One of the most beautiful views I've seen

Temple of the sun God

Tomorrow is Palm Sunday when Jesus rides on a donkey into town and the people lay palms on the road. I am going to Mass at the Cathedral in the Plaza de Armes at 7a.m. in the morning when the people bring their palms to be blessed before laying them down before Jesus. More on this tomorrow.

Friday, 26th March - Day 20 - Going to the Zoo

Just a quick update as I am going out to a restaurant in town this evening in search of a glass of wine.  Been so busy today, I really feel as though I have earned my keep - this morning awake at 5.55am [as usual] and then to the prison to collect 10 children to take to the zoo.  Unfortunately, when we got there, there was a security check as one of the prisoners was poisoned and died last week and the guards are being mega vigilant.  One of the visitors who was bringing food to her husband was made to eat some of it to ensure that it was safe!  Anyway, because of all this, and they had lost some papers permitting us to take the kids out and then when the papers were found, the guard who had the key to let us out went missing,  we were all locked in for about 45 minutes. It was touch and go whether we were going to be allowed out with the children but eventually we went and took them to the zoo.  It was wonderful to see their reaction to just seeing trees and stray dogs and cars and when we got to the zoo it was like fairy wonderland - their little faces were just awe struck.  We had an hour before returning them to their hell hole of a home but I suppose that's what they are used to and they all went happily, if very sleepily, back to their mums.

At the Zoo

A Vicunia - same family as Alpaca and Llama but far more beautiful and their wool is the softest and most expensive of all these animals.

Having a wonderful time at the zoo

Me with Ruth

This afternoon back to the orphanage.

Thursday, 25th March - Day 19 - Wawa and Orphanage

Back to the Wawa this morning on my own - made my first mistake by wearing flip flops and when I got there, the little yard was just mud and rocks so I had to leave them at the opening to the 'stable room' and go bare footed for the morning.  Seven children today, the youngest being 11 months.  She took one look at me again today and didn't stop crying for an hour!   Like yesterday,  I eventually picked her up and she fell asleep in my arms.  I think they must get up about 6a.m. and are completed tired most of the day because even when they do drop off, the 'mama' just cleans their faces, changes their nappies or whatever while they sleep and they wake up again.  Off to the park was a bit of an effort - the little one on my hip and another holding my hand and the mama had one in a buggy that steers like a boat - turn to the left and it goes right! - one on her hip and one in the shopping area of the buggy and the rest of them just ran on.  Quite hairy when cars are coming and going.  Anyway, we returned in one piece - just - and I got back to the volunteer  house absolutely exhausted with my hair in a huge tangle from where the boys had been riding on my back when I was being a horse!  Cant wait for next week to go back to the ancianas for a bit of vegetable chopping and peaceful bean-bag throwing!   This afternoon we are going to the orphanage which is run by nuns and a little way out of town.  As I dont speak much spanish and wont be able to help with the    homework, I will be helping with the babies.  I dont, however, do 'caca'! [I will leave that to your imaginations!]

In the classroom doing homework with the orphans [not babies as they were sick]

Two of the little girls - the one of the right took the role of mum to all the others

Homework over, time for a cuddle

This afternoon to the orphanage which was lovely - the children are wonderfully behaved and their educational standard is much higher than those of the same age [7 years old] back in England. They all have beautiful, joined up writing and can read well and can even count and say a few words in English. Somehow we managed to get along fine despite the language difficulties!

Will finish today's blog sometime soon but must go and get changed for my big night out - whoopee!

It is the start of Semana Santa today so there will be processions in the Plazas every evening from now on for the next week culminating in the huge procession on Easter Sunday by which time I will have left.  We have decided to go out tomorrow evening for dinner and to see one of the celebrations in a nearby plaza.

Just uploading some pics and came across this one - it made us all laugh so much, especially the expression on the face of the black and white one - 'Excuse me, but would someone mind telling me what the ......... is going on?'

OMG

Wednesday, 24th March - Day 18 - My work assignment at the Wawa Wasi

Just a quick update today - I went to my Wawa Wasi and helped a sweet 20 year old single mum look after six little babies up to 2 years old in this little stable-like building.  She kept it spotlessly clean, sweeping it at least three times during the 4 hours I was there and the children were amazingly well behaved.  Three of the six burst into tears, however, when they saw me and one of the other volunteer girls who came with me and it took quite a while to get them to even look at us.  Eventually, I just picked up one little boy who had resolutely stood staring at the wall and would not turn round or respond at all to me and he yelled.  I took him out into the mud yard where a black sheep was having his breakfast and sang Baa Baa Black Sheep to him in an effort to distract him and he promptly fell asleep in my arms!  Probably the only way not to have to listen to my singing for any longer.   We took the children round to the park for a bit of a run around and the mother caught a grass hopper to show them all and promptly took its back legs off to stop it jumping away!!  Yuk.

Selina washing up after breakfast

Playtime begins

Outside playtime on an area of grass nearby - The little girl who screamed every time she saw me!

Yesterday while we were having a bit of a chill on the roof of the house, there was a bit of a wobble which we thought might have been the road works out in the front of the house.  We were told later that it was an earth quake!  The epicentre was in the Ayacucho province but quite a few hundred miles away.  It was 4.5 on the Richter scale.  All is quiet again and nothing to worry about - it's quite a common occurrence.

I thought I would just post a few of the lovely ancianas at the nursing home.  I think I will probably go back to them again next week as they really, really do appreciate our visits and help and their faces just light up when they see us.  Children are very hard work and I feel they dont need our help as much as the old ladies.

Chabella

Tuesday, 23rd March - Day 17 - Augustina dies

Sad news today when we arrived at the nursing home - one of the old ladies, Augustina, had died on Sunday night.  She was a really sweet one who had just sat in her wheelchair whenever we went to work there and was just able to say 'mamasita' whenever we tended her.  We passed one of the rooms normally used as a sitting room when it rains and saw a white coffin placed on a stand in front of a crucifix with candles at the foot - very beautiful but strangely out of place because everyone was carrying on as normal in the courtyard outside.   One of the nuns said that we could go in to see her which, with enormous hesitation, we did.  There was a little door cut into the top of the coffin which was open so that her face was on view. We said goodbye to her and Millie and I were pleased that she had a nice warm cardigan on as she had always been cold sitting in the courtyard.  It was, of course, really sad and emotional but she was in her nineties and ended her days being cared for in a lovely, peaceful setting.  The other old ladies seem quite upset and unsettled although life goes on as usual - chopping veggies but no music today.

Some of my chums

Friday to Sunday - 19th - 21st March - Days 13, 14 and 15 - Ica and Paracas

Our transport to Paracas - top deck unfortunately as 1st classhad sold out ownstairs

Where to start?  With much excitement, five of us bought our sandwiches and snacks and packed our bags  for the four day trip to the coast and set off at 11a.m. on Friday morning in a large, double decker bus - us on top in economy as all the first class seats downstairs had gone.  Cost - 40 soles for the 7 hour journey which is about $13 U.S.   The journey was spectacular and I think because of the excitement of going on the trip I didn't really take in the sheer drops and hairpin bends that we had to negotiate all the way along. 

The mountains through which we were driven

We passed through the same terrain as we had hiked the week before and saw hundreds of llamas and alpacas and small straw-roofed dwellings.  One can only imagine the hardship of living in those conditions such as having to walk miles and miles to Ayacucho if someone is ill, no running water, electricity or sanitation.  We met one old lady previously who stayed in her little hut all day long while her family went off into the fields and she told us she got very lonely just sitting spinning all day before their return after dark.  

A lonely and hard existence

 We finally got off the bus at St Clemente and were met by Pancho, our English-speaking guide for the weekend.  Unfortunately for someone who is a guide he had sold his van 10 days earlier so we had to jump on one bus and then another for the half hour journey to Ica which is a small town in the desert and our first night stop of the weekend  - all part of the fun.    At Ica, there is an amazing Oasis where we will be staying.

ICA and HUACACHINA  -  Arrived at our hotel in the oasis that is Huacachina and were so pleased to see that it had a very nice pool and our rooms were fine.  No wardrobe, no drawers, three to our room but ok.  The oasis is extraordinary, just as you would imagine in a fairy story.  A very large lagoon surrounded by palm trees and bushes.  It is now quite built up and has a promenade around it surrounded by various hotels and restaurants but all still very natural.  Around the oasis the sand dunes literally soar to about 1,000ft and the scenery is simply wonderful.

Huacachina oasis

Bedroom for 3!

The pool at our hotel in Ica with sand dunes in the background

Setting off in our dune buggy

Being pushed off for my first trip down the dune - the speck in the distance is another person!

Taking a breather

Precariously perched on the top of a sand dune - specks in the distance are people!

Saturday morning we boarded our dune buggy and away we went into the desert - careering around the dunes like some demented runaway roller coaster.  I lost my cap at one stage but the kind driver retraced our tracks and found it for me, having to stop horizontally across this very steep slope to get out!  Then came the moment of truth - we stopped and the driver got out the sand boards [just the same as snow boards].  A lot of 'Oh my God' went on  but I thought that if all the others could do it so could I.  Over the edge of this sand mountain I went and zoomed down to the bottom of what I thought must be the highest hill of them all.  Oh no, once done, we then went on to three more slopes each one longer and steeper than the last.  I understand that the last one was over 1,000 ft long and about 400 ft vertically high.  [Or was it in metres?  All I know is that it felt like miles!]  It was terrific even though a bit scary as we got up to quite considerable speeds but a great experience and I was ready for more!    The afternoon we went to visit a winery which was quite interesting but very touristy and after Ayacucho we are simply not used to seeing more than one two other gringos walking around town.    Back to the hotel for swim and chilling out - lovely.

Sunday morning up at 5.30a.m. to catch a bus to Paracas which is the seaside.  We boarded a large speed boat and off we went to see the sea lions who live on a rocky island close by.  Along the way we stopped to see a carving in the sand dunes just like one of the Nazca lines - about 400ft high. The image, similar to a candelabra faces out to sea and a theory is that it was some kind of navigational aid although noone knows the origin of these extraordinary lines.   A pod of dolphins swam with us to the islands where hundreds and hundreds of sea lions live along with thousands of sea birds and penquins.  Quite an amazing sight.   That afternoon, a 4 mile walk along the coastal path which was great to stretch out legs and get some sunshine.

'The Candelabra'

Treading the grape!  Yuk

Sun through the rocks at Paracas - simply stunning

 

Who are you?

Sea lions basking in the sunshine

In our boat returning from the sea lions

Our lovely little 2* hotel in Paracas

Paracas promenade

Monday - back the way we came although the journey home was in first class [so comfortable] and we were in the clouds most of the way so it was cold and wet and miserable outside and visibility was awful.  I just shut the curtains, shut my eyes and plugged in my i-pod and then slept.  Couldn't cope with watching the invisible scenery going past and allowing my imagination to take over.   Anyway, we arrived safely and on time - incredible seeing as the entire journey for the bus which started in Lima took 11 hours.

So, off to work now - I am going to say goodbye to the old ladies and start tomorrow with the children.  Hope you are all ok at home - I love reading your comments and e-mails so do, please, keep them coming.  For any of you who might want to see more pics, I have now uploaded masses onto my new facebook [yes, even me!] site.